The Renaissance of Roman Cuisine in Melbourne

Melbourne’s culinary landscape is constantly evolving, and it’s rare for a single restaurant to capture the essence of an entire city’s cooking traditions like Roma has done. Located beneath the glass towers of Collins Street, this all-day Italian eatery is a love letter to Rome, with its rich history, simple yet elegant food, and commitment to traditional service.

One striking aspect of Roma is its dedication to using high-quality ingredients in unadorned dishes. This approach may seem old-fashioned to some, but it’s what sets Roma apart from modern restaurants that prioritize presentation over flavor. Executive chef and co-owner Matt Wilkinson works closely with local suppliers like Cobram Estate olive oil company, whose custom oil is used throughout the kitchen.

Wilkinson’s produce-driven sensibility may be unusual for an Italian restaurant, but it’s a nod to the River Cafe in London, which has long been known for its respect for ingredients. The menu at Roma draws heavily from Roman recipes and key dishes like bucatini all’amatriciana and paccheri alla Baronessa showcase the kitchen’s attention to detail.

Roma’s emphasis on offal – a staple of Roman cooking often overlooked in Melbourne dining rooms – sets it apart. Lamb brains, chicken giblets, and pork liver meatballs are just a few examples of unconventional ingredients used throughout the menu. Co-owner Giovanni Patane notes, “Rome’s a romantic city… but there was also great misery, and out of that was born beautiful food.”

The service at Roma is equally impressive, with waiters expertly assembling plates from the extensive antipasti table. This theatrical element adds to the overall experience, making dining at Roma feel like a true Italian feast. Even the décor, featuring vintage Italian furnishings and timber JBL speakers, contributes to the cozy atmosphere.

Roma’s commitment to traditional service, simple yet elegant food, and high-quality ingredients makes it a standout in Melbourne’s culinary landscape. While some may see it as a novelty – a trendy Italian restaurant in the CBD – Roma is actually a deeply rooted expression of Roman cuisine and culture.

As the dining scene continues to evolve, Roma serves as a refreshing reminder that sometimes the best restaurants are those that stay true to their roots while innovating. With its unique blend of traditional Roman cuisine and modern sensibilities, Roma is poised to become a staple in Melbourne’s food scene for years to come.

Roma’s success raises questions about its future. Can it maintain its momentum, attracting new customers while satisfying its loyal following? Only time will tell, but one thing is certain: this restaurant is not just a love letter to Rome, but a testament to the power of traditional cuisine in modern Melbourne.